Decided to visit Estro after returning from Italy, because despite two really good meals at walk-in trattorias in Verona, I left Italy largely unsatiated.
Service
Bread and amuse-bouche courses were served quickly, as were desserts. I surmise this was due to them being common across the 3, 4, 5 course business lunch, and 6 course tasting menu. Meanwhile, apps and mains came at much slower intervals, likely because the kitchen was prioritizing the large number of business lunches. Anyhow, I was in no rush and was provided 2 books table ready.
Worth mentioning is the table and sofa set up is perfect. Super comfortable positioning, you can effortlessly recline and sit upright without moving.
Food
~Dried beetroot, ricotta tart; watermelon juice, lime. Powerful shot to wake you up.
-Mussels, octopus, aori ika. Bland mussels, a shame as they looked plump and juicy. They were steamed twice, mussels first; and after they open, stuffed with octopus and tied up to close again. Unfortunately, the octopus exacerbated the blandness. The aori ika, another clean but chewy component, didn't help. Tomato sauce was unexpectedly spicy and garlicky. Much more garlicky than any dish I had in Italy. Dish lacked salt to replace the lost brininess of the mussels.
-Red prawn, coral panna cotta, caviar (supp). Coral flavor very light, none of the rich, savory, umami goodness I'd associate with prawn coral. Also, quite zesty. Didn't enjoy this coral-lite and zesty combo – this is a fan favourite so YMMV.
~Linguine, amaebi, crustacean and almond emulsion. Floral, zesty, and slightly spicy, helped cut through the creaminess. When eaten together, the amaebi provided an initial "burst" texturally, but the creaminess of the amaebi was lost to the emulsion. I think a cooked shrimp would've provided better texture and stood up to the emulsion, thereby allowing some of its natural sweetness to come through.
~Bottoni, girolles, matsutake, mushroom jus. You wouldn't be able to tell this was a mushroom-only dish without observing the garnishes. None of those woody, earthy, and umami characteristics. The bottoni was filled with a light soothing matsutake broth. Needed more seasoning and depth to showcase the mushrooms imo.
~Roe deer, red cabbage, beetroot, cubed pepper, jus. No frills, meat and jus executed just right. Super smooth beetroot purée.
+Chestnut gelato, poached pear, chestnut mousse cake. Rich, smooth, nutty, earthy. Not often chestnut is this decadent (usually very light). Would happily order just this. ++ if the pear and chestnut were made into one cohesive dessert, right now, it's 3 (arguably 2) separate elements.
~Mignardises. Sicilian pistachio gelato reminded me of all the great gelato in Italy. Wasn't a fan of the liquid fig jam in the panna cotta (split/ didn't set?).
Looking for thoughts regarding Noi vs Robuchon au Dôme for a birthday dinner. Guessing Robuchon would befit the occasion more?
3.5/5
by lexicalsatire