Black Forest’s Schwarzwaldstube (***) — Germany’s Longest-Running Three-Star Restaurant

Germany’s longest-running 3-star restaurant. Top on La Liste, etc. Have been meaning to try Schwarzwaldstube out for a while. Booked 3.5 months out for a Wednesday in shoulder season. They were already booked for the rest of the week. The restaurant is part of Hotel Traube Tonbach, a long-running Black Forest destination hotel (with 3 Michelin Keys) where guests have been coming for decades to spend all day at the hotel’s spa/baths/saunas/steam rooms. Some also choose to hike. While the hotel clearly was not used to having many english-speaking guests, the restaurant had no issues.

One of the restaurant’s strengths is its flexibility. While they offer three set menus plus an à la carte selection, diners can freely mix and match. We took Menu I, removed the opening course, and replaced it with two courses from Menu II—no fuss, totally accommodating.

Amuse-Bouche: A farro risotto in cold consommé with kefir yogurt, green Chartreuse sorbet, and crisp vegetables. Fresh, lively, palate-cleansing.

First course: Poached oysters and caviar. Oysters were under an obscene amount of caviar, and anchored by a champagne beurre blanc with tart green apples. Very harmonious.

Second course: Charcoal-grilled lobster paired with sautéed and crispy mushrooms, scallions, and a savory dusting that tied it all together. Rich and smoky.

Third course: Stuffed red mullet with crispy fish scales, peanuts, pickled cucumbers, alliums, and a chili-prawn vinaigrette with coconut cream. Bright, zippy, and boldly Asian. Very nicely executed.

Final savory course: Black Forest roe deer. Gratinated medallion and braised shoulder with glazed pineapple, chanterelles, and a Rouennaise accented with coffee and passion fruit. Good, though the least thrilling dish of the evening.

Obligatory cheese trolley that I neglected to take a photo of. Most of the cheese came from France, however.

Dessert: Just one dessert course, thank god! Tarte Tatin. No commentary.

Petite Fours: Wide selection, brought tableside. Opted for two caneles. Very nicely done.

Service: Polished, warm, friendly. The elderly hotel owner made the rounds personally. Clearly very proud of his hotel and restaurant. The chef was present, but remained in the kitchen aside from regular tableside service at one table — a solo 60-year-old man.

Final Thoughts: Excellent wine list. My favorite aspect of the restaurant is the size of coursing. This is not a place you should go if you want endless small courses. Here, the plates are substantial and purposeful. They are operating at the top of their game. It was a destination meal in every sense.