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tl;dr: excellent elevated but classic Korean food; outstanding service
Atomix has two different tasting menus: the main chef's counter downstairs, and a bar tasting menu upstairs. I had the bar tasting menu last night, which is offered with a required beverage pairing that's included in the price. For the beverage pairing, you can choose between a nonalcoholic pairing (which I went for) and an alcoholic pairing (which my dining companion went for). I don't know too much about drinks so I don't have that much to say, but all of them tasted great and complemented the dishes well.
Food
- Sugar snap peas, scallop muchim, preserved lemon, mint – A pretty standard amuse, but it definitely did a great job of showcasing the peas in this dish. I usually don't really like peas, but the peas here tasted great. 8/10
- Gizzard shad, lotus root, perilla, magnolia – Lotus root is an ingredient that I'm pretty fond of, and it worked really well with the different flavors in this bite. Very refreshing. 9/10
- Gamtae bugak, yukhwe, kimchi – This was a pretty interesting take on steak tartare. I think the seaweed shell kind of overpowered the meat, but it worked pretty well. Also somehow it kind of tasted like truffle in terms of the earthiness, but there wasn't any in the dish. 9/10
- Cured trout, strawberry, rhubarb, kohlrabi – If I had to describe this dish with a single word, I'd say "spring". Strawberry isn't something you'd usually see in a dish like this since it's usually too sweet, but the unripened strawberries they used here worked perfectly and gave a great balance of acidity and sweetness. 9/10
- Chestnut monkfish liver custard, hazelnuts, black truffle – This dish was incredibly earthy but also sweet at the same time. I think this dish did a great job of showcasing and complementing the flavor of the truffles. 10/10
- Hobak juk, sea urchin roe, nuruk – This definitely reminds me of the jook dish at Jua, but I liked this one more. I think the creaminess of the uni went really well with the rest of the soup, and the nuts in there added a good variety of flavor and texture. 10/10
- Fried goguma, kristal caviar, macadamia – This was a pretty cool take on classic Korean sweet potato. The saltiness of the caviar went really really well with the sweet potato on the bottom as well as the macadamia paste. 9/10
- Sea bream, maeuntang, chrysanthemum – A very classic take on maeuntang. The fish here was perfectly cooked, but I didn't like the sauce too much (probably because I hate spicy things). 7/10
- Iberico maekjeok, golden queen rice, maitake mushrooms – The rice in this dish was the standout, and the ham went well with it. I do wish there was a little bit more sauce on the ham, but it still tasted really good. 9/10
- Bergamot, Korean pear, preserved kumquats, white chocolate – A nice and light finish to a pretty heavy meal. I think the flavors were pretty similar to that of bingsu, which I liked. 9/10
Overall, all of the dishes were really good and there weren't any misses. I do think the flavors are very classic Korean flavors, so if you like those then you'll enjoy this meal.
Service
The service was top notch, and probably the best I've had in a fine dining restaurant. Shoutout to the bartender Kevin, who my dining companion and I had a great conversation about bartending and other things with. Service-wise, I do think Atomix benefits from the intimate bar setting they have here, since it is a lot easier for guests to have a good conversation with the chefs and bartender, but it is clear that the service is their #1 priority (in a good way).
Summary
Overall, this meal was one of the best fine dining meals I've ever had, with excellent food and outstanding service. I think the bar does a great job of providing a complete experience showcasing the ingredients and the season, unlike most tasting menus that are a bit more disjoint. At a price of $340 inclusive of the drink pairing, tip, and tax, I'd say this is actually one of the best value fine dining meals you can get in NYC.
Is Atomix the undisputed #1 restaurant in North America? Probably not, but it's definitely up there for me, and I'll definitely be returning (if I can get another reservation).
by brianzjk