Last year was the 40th anniversary of the Waterside Inn and I arrived just in time for the start of their celebratory summer menu which had a rotation of classic dishes.
The restaurant is situated right on the bank of the Thames with a private pier and landing frequented by ducks and swans. The dining room is spacious and brightly lit with panoramic views of the river. The interior was sharply decorated with black, white and grey, with each table adorned with heavy bronze casts of local produce as well as some not-so-local shellfish.
The three course lunch cost £265pp, plus £15 extra for the lobster entrée.
Amuse Bouche: Savoury canapés of cured salmon, tuna and some kind of creamy mousse. A decent start but otherwise unremarkable. 7/10
Soup and Bread: Vegetable soup served with a miniature baguette. Bread was warm with a lovely crispy crust. The soup was smooth with bold aromatic notes of shallots and turmeric. 8/10
Pan Fried Lobster Medallion with Vegetable Julienne and White Port Sauce: A generous portion of tangy and slightly spicy lobster pieces with the shell cracked just enough to release the flesh. The accompanying vegetables had a strong ginger flavour but not overpowering, almost reminds me of some Cantonese lobster dishes I’ve had in the past. 10/10, no wonder it had been a almost permanent fixture for the past three decades.
Roasted Duck with Red Port Jus: Slices of perfectly cooked duck breast with tender meat and crunchy skin coated with a layer of salt and spices. The assorted garnishes were carefully crafted from parsnip, raspberry and chestnuts which balanced the flavour of the duck rather well. My server also bought a small dish of flaky salt to my table, which was much appreciated as someone who still likes to season their own food. After finishing everything on the first plate, I was promptly given a second helping of duck thigh with mesclun salad which was just as good as the first one. Doubly 10/10.
Sorbet: Rosewater flavoured ice with a candied rose petal. Simple, fragrant and effective. 9/10
Warm Raspberry Soufflé: Served with a warm raspberry compote poured at the table. Warm and fluffy as expected, the taste however was one of the sourest soufflés I’ve had. Overall it wasn’t unpleasant, but I could have ordered something else. 6/10
Cake: I mentioned on my way in that yesterday was my birthday and the kitchen surprised me with a slice of chocolate gâteau to my table with a message from the chef. The cake was rich and moist, with the right amount of bitterness from cocoa. 9/10
Mignardises: I didn’t order tea or coffee but they bought me a plate of petit fours anyway which I enjoyed with some sparkling water. 9/10
The wine list was expansive with many options available by the glass via Coravin. It took me a while before settling on an Alsatian Riesling which went great with the lobster. The middle aged sommelier was knowledgable, charismatic and eager to sell some of his finest French red for the next course. To that end, I almost felt sorry for disappointing him with my order of a regular Bordeaux which was very good for the price. 10/10
I have also skipped the cheese course, but the cart looked delightfully funky from a distance.
Overall a highly satisfying experience, and I don’t regret choosing that I had over the tasting menu at all. The original plan was to have dinner with an overnight stay at the inn, but the timing did not pan out so I had to settle for lunch. Now I’m off to make it work in 2026.
by laforet